What do musicians do when they're not playing music? Trekking Three Passes in Nepal

Embark on a journey with me!

For 21 days, I trekked 184km and climbed 9,600m to journey around the Three Passes in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

From mid October to early Nov, 2024 - most recommended time for this journey, and I definitely agree.

I flew solo from New Zealand to Kathmandu (stopping by Sri Lanka for a short surf trip) and managed to find people doing the walk on a similar timeframe, and by day 3 of the trek, we had a crew of seven people who stuck together for the whole journey. Our nationalities included NZ, UK, Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, USA and Brazil.

The Three Passes is the exact same location for the more well-known, Everest Base Camp (EBC), and even though our Three Passes trip included the EBC side trip (which is an amazing landmark and bucket list item), my overall journey was a very different experience and there were many other highlight moments asides from EBC.

Mt Everest on the left, Lhotse on the right - view from Kala Patthar.

Everest Base Camp by itself is usually 10 - 13 days, whereas Three Passes is anywhere from 18 - 23 days, depending your pace, and how you decide to travel from Kathmandu to Sagamartha National Park (flying is quickest, but we decided to jeep which took two days).

In general, visiting this specific part of the world, at high altitude, requires a fair bit of curiosity, knowledge, respect, fitness, grit and motivation. You can make the journey much more accessible by hiring porters and guides who can carry all your gear, and who can provide simple navigation, but this is not mandatory and I personally feel the experience is much richer when you can carry your own gear and navigate the trail and experiences yourself.

Going solo means you'll have a much easier time meeting and linking up with other solo trekkers / groups as you're not tied to a guide - you can move at your own schedule.

The whole national park is an enormous trekking economy, with teahouses, villages, locals and foreigners EVERYWHERE - the track is super clear and you'll always find a room and food at any given time or day, even if it means sleeping in a common room if the rooms are full.

Totals for Trekking Three Passes in Nepal

Toal Elevation Gain - 9,600m (approx)

(Height of Mt. Everest - 8,849m)

Total Distance Trekking - 184km

Includes the side trips, base camp missions and ridge climbs.

My Pack List for Three Passes

Keep reading for my day-by-day, personal journal of the Three Passes:

But first, enjoy some Sunshine Reggae!

Day 1 - Kathmandu to Salleri

Jeep Drive Time - 12 hours

It's Friday in Thamel, Kathmandu. My bags are packed and alarm set for 2.40am - nervous but full of excitement, and feeling well prepared. One of the strangest experiences was actually walking through the bustling Thamel nightlife at 2.40am with my full trekking bag, walking to my jeep pickup. Everyone is out having a fun time, and I'm about to hop in a fully loaded jeep for 12 hours.

The jeep has two up front, four in the middle row (including me), and there in the back (my new friends, Jamie, Sarah and Alex). We departed, and shortly arrived at a road closure at 430am, saying it would open at 5am - fun. 

Kept moving and came to some very crazy roads - due to a recent monsoon and land slides, huge parts of the roads were completely ruined - so, it was extremely bumpy, but that's all part of it. 

First breakfast was essentially in the middle of nowhere - river side - delicious roti, curry and sweet bagel type thing. 

Lunch was also memorable - a yum, all you can eat Nepalese set menu; rice, curry and some side dishes/potatoes/veggies. 

Get dropped at Salleri check out some accommodation, the first place is super basic (probably the most basic accommodation we saw the whole time which was funny, but we decided to stay next door in the Himalayan Lodge. Really comfortable; hot water, wifi, full bar/restaurant, comfy rooms. Not a cold sleep. Amazing chicken curry for dinner. 

We had a tough time figuring out our next day; we quickly discovered that it's impossible to 'pre-book' in Nepal, unless you speak the language, have a guide or know people. We were trying to book a jeep for our next day, which was another 5, then 2 hours driving bumpy roads.

Locals were trying to push us into a bullshit deal, but we managed to find a guy who could get us in a jeep for the first part.

Be careful when booking 'multi-stop' journeys, as you'll get dropped somewhere in the middle of nowhere and no one will have a clue what's happening.

But, also have trust that there will always be a way forward.

Day 2 - Salleri to Paiyu

Jeep Drive Time - 7.5 hours

Total Distance Walked - 3km

We thankfully opted for a 730am departure, meaning we got a decent sleep, and had a banana pancake to set us into the morning.

We were traveling to a bridge which had recently been destroyed due to landslides. The journey to the bridge was ridiculous - 4.5 hours - so bumpy!! Holding on for dear life almost the whole way; it almost helped that I was squashed in again!

Did have some yum samosas at our half way pit stop. Also came across a jeep stuck in the mud. We managed to push them out and kept moving. 

The deal was (from Salleri) that we'd jeep to the bridge, walk over, then someone would be waiting for us on the other side to continue. It would be a two hour jeep ride, otherwise a 2 day walk to where we wanted to go.

First night sleeping on the trail, Paiyu.

No such luck on the 'jeep booking' - maybe if we had a guide it would work that way, but we were left to figure it out, and thankfully, between us, we got on to the next available jeep to Thandandan, which was a slightly amusing story in itself...

...We saw a jeep early after crossing the bridge and kept bugging the guy to give us a ride, even after the driver said 'No' multiple times. We could see no other jeeps in sight, and were in the middle of nowhere. We stood our ground, and started using google translate out to keep hustling him - he must have been waiting for some 'pre-booked' people, I'm not sure.

He eventually caved, and we all loaded our bags and took a seat.

We drove up the hill about 50metres, around some corner only to find about 50 people at a tea house waiting for a jeep! That must have been the queue... oh well, we're in.

Another, extremely tight and rough 2.5hr ride to Thandandan - making it about 19 hours total in the jeep. Moving super slow most of the time. 

We get out of the jeep and walk and 45mins to Paiyu - find accommodation and post up for the night :)

Day 3 - Paiyu to Phakding 

Elevation Gain - 650m

Total Distance - 15km

Sleeping Elevation - 2,610m / 8,563ft

6.20am rise, into a 630am porridge with apple/banana breakfast. I brought a 25 pack of Earl grey tea so just needed the free hot water to get that going.

First view for today, the teahouse guard-dog.

On on the trail nice and early - beautiful day meant we saw non-stop planes and helicopters flying into Lukla. We skipped Lukla, but did see a few landings. 

Lots of mules and yaks, quite a few people, a few swing bridges, and also making more companions along the way. Roxanne from Belgium and Bob from Netherlands. Now we are 6.

Mules were often seen lower down, as yaks liked the colder temperature.

Enjoyed a noodle dish, but maybe not as good as the ones I saw the night before. The food overall has been super amazing!!! So tasty, and the days when you're really hungry, order a dahl baht or curry and they give you free refills. *I'll soon learn the food gets very repetitive, with little to no fresh food the higher you go. Learnings of altitude.

Body wise feeling pretty good after this day, calves are a bit sore and shoulder neck a little tight but over feeling fit. 

Arriving at Phakding we are joined by yet another traveller, Maylene from Germany (who is a friend of Rox). So lucky to have a great crew all together! 

Our room tonight had an ensuite with free hot showers!!!

Our room and common room in Phakding.

Day 4 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Elevation Gain - 800m

Total Distance - 10km 

Sleeping Elevation - 3420m / 11,220ft

Breakfast was late, we had to hurry them up a little bit, but not too bad. Double egg omelette - not enough fuel really, but happy I learnt that lesson early in the trek.

Walk over to the national park check-point and pick up one more permit (3,000 Nepalese Rupees - added to the permit I bought in Kathmandu tourist centre). Get them checked off by police/army security, then we're away. Officially into Sagarmatha National Park.

At the entrance with Alex.

It's relatively flat for a bit, then just straight up to Namche - gaining about 700m. Was pretty gruelling, but my uphill walking is pretty solid, and so far I've seen people who seem far less prepared for the uphill slogs, and they have porters carrying gear for them!

Took an hour or so to sort out accommodation in Namche Bazar; we originally wanted a spot near the top that would give us an amazing views, but due to all the flights on the previous day, the three rooms in that teahouse area were all fully booked. But, we found a great spot in the end and all very happy there. Shangri-la.

Joined by Pier - the 60 YO dutch - cool guy! 

Now we're 8 (although Pier isn't really walking much with us).

I had a baby wipe shower, then a double batch of Dahl baht, and everyone went to take a nap, but I went out and explored the town. Bought a cool Tibetan flag style buff, had a clean shave, saw some shops, had a coffee at yak bar and watched a doco on the first accent of Mt. Everest, which is just a ridiculous story (the sort of equipment and warmth they had whilst exploring absolutely unchartered territory). Made me feel better about my situation. 

Arrived back for more chats, and a game from Maylene called, Worms. Food, lots of laughs, chats and games, pre-ordered our breakfast, then off to bed. 

We are in Namche for two nights.

Reading a bit, journaling, but likely asleep by 10pm - ready for breaky at 630am, and set for a 2hr ish acclimatisation hike (we're in Namche for two nights) - first time to actually see a glimpse of Everest. Let's go!

Day 5 - Namchee Bazaar

Day to acclimatise + side trip to first Everest view point

Elevation Gain - 430m (high point 3,840)

Total Distance - 4.2km

We had an amazing view point all to ourselves for a good 20 min. First time seeing Everest!

We checked out Sagarmatha Next - the national parks waste program. It's shame this National Park doesn't encourage/support better waste management, but the program like Next is doing something about it!.

Sagarmatha Next take tonnes on plastic bottles and break them down into finer materials, then invite artists from around the world to come and create art with it, and sales are donated back to the program. 

Bottle caps aren't recyclable here, or in Kathmandu, so they create little sculptures out if them, using approx 35 bottle caps to make them. They were really cool, but kinda pricy.

We came back down to Namche for a chicken burger, chips and serving of fried momo (basically dumplings). The food took sooo long. Yum tho. 

Went out to buy 24 Snickers for the crew, some lip balm and then nap time for an hour or so. 

How people actually make it to Everest.

After nap-time I put my dinner order in and went to a shop where I saw a guitar, jammed some tunes then down to the hungry Yak to watch a cool three piece band play.

Back up for Dahl Baht, then a very early night into bed. 

Day 6 - Namche to Pangboche

Elevation Gain - 1,300m

Total Distance - 13km

Sleeping Elevation - 3860m / 12,664ft

Porridge and honey for breakfast - that will be my staple now onwards - best fuel for the morning walk (for my body at least).

Walking was flat for a bit then a huge up hill climb up to Tyangboche - we heard on the way that this little village was fully booked for accommodation (all the guides with groups book in advance).

Tyangboche was quite small in the end, so we took a few snaps, saw Alex for a moment, then continued into Pangboche. It was another 90 mins on the trail, and only a 200metre climb.

Bob and I were knackered at the end of this one - kind of a double leg, but worth it as now we're in the starting position for Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Stopping by Tyangboche

Nice accommodation, western toilet, a view of Mt Everest from bed, and an epic view from the other side. Straight inside for Lemon Ginger Tea, and Dahl Baht. 

Clouds really coming over now... Hopefully still decent weather tomorrow!

Waiting here for Alex to arrive - probs just reading and chilling now.

Went to a cafe for a brownie and tea, amazing brownie!

Wow, saw some amazing views of Everest - clouds cleared just for us! Played a bunch of cards; oh this brings me back to the simple life; human connection, rest, activity and food. Why does life have to be so complicated?

Went outside at sunset for a peak and found this.

Day 7 - Hike to Ama Deblam Base Camp / Rest Day

Ama Dablam Base Camp Elevation - 660m + extra 100m to ridge line

Total Distance - 10km round trip

Overnight sleep was tough as I think I overate, and had too much sugar day before. Had a double bathroom visit for some #2 sludge at 2am or something - but, that seemed to clear the pipes and I was all good in the morning. Bit scary tho - thought I had a bug or something, and main lesson here is simple, effective food management. Sucks being sick up there!

Slower start this morning, had a pancake with peanut butter which felt doable after my sleep. 7am eating, left around 730am / 745am

Another stunning day - not a cloud in the sky almost all day! So amazing.

Hiked up to Ama Deblam Base Camp - pretty much straight uphill with a couple breaks. Makes a big difference just carrying a day pack, and wearing trail shoes. Happy with my decision to bring a second pair of shoes (and I almost left them in Namche).

Got to the top and it was a cool site; buzzing base camp with people summiting Ama Dablam (6780m).

We spoke with a guide / manager from 8K Expeditions and he turned out to be a local legend, and his Aunt has summited Everest the most as a female climber. There's a Netflix doco about her - Queen Of The Mountain.

We all tinkered with the idea of doing some crazy big climbs - definitely need some excess cash to make it happen!

Bob and I climbed further to the ridge line which was definitely cool and worth it. Got a ton of snaps.

Made our way down and enjoyed a simple, lighter lunch today; vege omelette + toast. 

Had a decent nap, then apple pie and milk tea at the cafe to write my journal updates.

Start of Ama Dablam BC hike.

We have the whole crew back together now, so hopefully some games tonight, likely I'll go out star gazing around 11pm and tomorrow I think is fairly chill - about 2HR walking, but new sleeping elevation. Taking our time to acclimatise. 

Had another great sunset photo session, had a simple dinner (fried noodle), then played hearts until kinda late then went out to photograph stars. My phone was locked in the kitchen room charging tho, but the others got a couple of goodies.

Always go out for the sunset photos!

Day 8 - Pangboche to Dingboche

Elevation Gain - 400m

Total Distance - 6.6km

Sleeping Elevation -4360m / 14,304ft

Plus, sunset ridge climb - 100 elevation gain

Woke up in Pangboche and Alex (my rooming buddy from London) said he'd been up all night throwing up - caught some sort of bug. I know he came into this trek not feeling 100% so his immune system would have been on edge anyway.

We ate breakfast and I checked in with him a few more times; he decided to stay another night, and possibly change the route of his journey - perhaps he would skip three passes and just focus on Everest Base Camp. He wasn't sure if it was altitude sickness or a bug; I personally thought it was food / bug related.

Important lesson again to watch food intake out here - simple, easy food that your body can handle well!

Also, Maylene (our German trekker) was quite ill that previous night with altitude sickness - headache and bit if anxiety. But she woke feeling fine and well.

I found out today that most of our crew have been taking Diamox (altitude sickness pills) which is interesting. At the moment, I'm feeling decent with nothing. Will see how I go. 

Only a short walk today to Dingboche - a couple of hours in the trail. 

Arrived in Dingboche - bean bags and sun bathing. Luxury.

Found a nice place to stay - seemed like all the wealthy trekking expeditions started here. Bit of a weird vibe; big screen TVs and super fancy tea houses, up over 4,000m altitude. The two girls took me to lunch at a super low-key local spot which was nice. Played some more cards and started to feel a headache coming on.... altitude sickness perhaps?

Still managed to rug up, walk up the ridge line and catch sunset which was the best I've seen yet! Did some breath work (yogic sleep breathing), and felt better. Views are becoming more and more stunning as the days go by, and we haven't even completed a pass yet!

Down in time for dinner - local noodle soup called Tuhkpa, then more cards and off to sleep. 

My rooming buddy (now Bob from Netherlands) almost convinced me to head out for more star gazing / photos, but at 11pm I had already dozed off and lost interest. Good thing as he came back but long after leaving saying it was cloudy. 

Had a really big, restful sleep! 

Walk up the ridge-line at Dingboche for sunset!

Day 9 - Dingboche to Chukung

Elevation Gain - 400m

Total Distance - 4.5km

Sleeping Elevation - 4730m / 15,518ft

Side Trip to Island Peak Base Camp

Elevation Gain - 385m

Total Base Camp Round Trip - 13.4km

We walked from Dinboche, up to Chukung which will be the highest I've ever slept!

We arrived quite early at Chukung, and put in a lunch order, going to be eating by 10.30am

But, they took forever and we are at midday. 

The people were really nice tho, and the food was decent so it was all good. 

After lunch we decided whether we take the 13.4km round trip to Island Peak Base Camp - it would have been ideal to leave earlier if lunch was on time, alas we're here and said yes to the side trip!

It was an amazing walk, with stunning valley views, open landscapes, and a really cool lake (kinda silty tho) at the end. I walked with the two girls, and it's was definitely a fun side trip, but super long.

Island Peak itself isn't much to see (especially from the angle we were at, but a decent sized base camp and lots of people going up. It's a very different level between trekking and summiting.

That made our entire day 18km!!!

Funnily enough, the best moment of the walk was arriving back at sunset and seeing the Himalayas during sunset hour - the absolute best! All up a stunning afternoon.

On the trail back from Island Peak Base Camp, day before.

Perhaps a little dehydrated after a long day in the sun, I arrived back to camp with a pretty bad headache - more like a thumping migraine - which lasted all night!!!

Was horrible. Didn't sleep well, was quite anxious, and thought I would need to go down the next day. Almost at the point of throwing up - was very disorientating.

Thankfully I awoke without the headache, but just really jaded and low energy. 

Day 10 - Chukung another night - 'rest day'

Side Trip to Chukung Ri

Elevation Gain - 700m

Total Distance - 5.3km

Even after a horrible sleep, I still got up at 6.30am and had breaky with the others who were planning to go up Chukung Ri. I opted to go back to bed tho and perhaps have a rest day. But, I woke up at 10am-ish and decided to go gain some more metres and I went up Chukung Ri anyway.

Half for my own good (walk high, sleep low) and half for my pride of wanting to do all the things! 

I left with the Americans (who impress me everyday with their stamina), but quickly went ahead of them as I found my own pace up the steep ridge. 

Only with a day pack, water, Snickers bar, some almonds, and the right layers, I ventured up this very steep incline. 

Viewpoint, near the top of Chukung Ri.

The body was feeling fine, but given I had a terrible nights sleep and was unsure about the altitude I was at, I thought it may have been a risky move, but everything was going fine, and I made it to the false summit, which was 600m up - I decided to keep walking until I crossed paths with Bob and the girls. 

I met them about half way up to the actual summit, and I called it a day there. Had a little break with them, and took some snaps. 

I was happy with myself for not pushing that extra little but which I don't think was even worth it, as the next day we would be above that point anyway on the KongMa La Pass.

We all get down at a decent hour (around 1.30pm), enjoyed some lunch, then a nice big sleep. 

Up for dinner and cards, but my headache returns. I decide to take a Diamox (altitude sickness pill), and also a Panadol before sleeping to ease the night. 

Going to bed my head was sore, but not thumping and I managed to fall asleep, only waking at 4am to go bathroom, and zero headache! So happy! 

Good thing too, because the next day we were setting out to walk Kongma La - the most challenging of the Three Passes.

Thank God I was feeling good!!!

Day 11 - Chukung to Lobuche - Kongma La Pass

1st of Three Passes

Elevation Gain - 900m

Total Distance - 9.8km

Walking Time - 10.25hours

Sleeping Elevation - 4,930m / 16,174ft

WOW..

Huge day. We woke at 5.45am, 6am breaky and actually started walking at 7.15am

This is described as the hardest of the three passes, and after completing all three, it definitely was the longest - but also being the first it was hard to compare it with anything.

Pretty much straight up to the pass point, which took us over to the next valley - taking in brand new scenery that we weren't used to, and saying goodbye to Ama DaBlam - our favourite mountain!

Roxanne led the way for this one, and she was an excellent pace keeper. Super slow and steady and kept everyone together. We walked from 4,730m up to 5,515 - and at the altitude, with a 12kg backpack, it was so tough to suck in oxygen.

Highlights were the beautiful lake, and walking with spikes for the first time, and hitting the high point if the pass.

Low point was the extremely long ending to the pass, as we crossed the Khumbu glacier. 

The pass was at the very top of this picture - we're arriving at the Khumbu Glacier to cross it.

We saw a group of Germans (from a distance) trying to take a short cut through the glacier, and we stood for about 5 minutes yelling at them to turn back and follow the markers. They did end up turning back after my comments at a very loud voice:

'Follow the orange markers. If you can't see an orange marker you're fucked.'

By the end, we had walked about 10.25 hours. 

Arriving Lobuche at roughly 5.30pm, we still had to a place to sleep!!! After a little walk through town we found somewhere and we all took some rest. We were very happy to have completed it, but also extremely tired! 

Kongma La Pass - big one.

Day 12 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep

Elevation Gain - 200m

Total Distance - 4.6km

Sleeping Elevation - 5,180m / 16,174ft

After the huge day before, we decided to not set an alarm and just cruise for the morning. 

I slept mostly well (no headache - I did have another Diamox after dinner), but with a super blocked nose - not uncommon for me..

The key to a good sleep at altitude is lip balm, vix/menthol to put under the nose, and water close by, along with your toilet paper just in case. Bonus points if you can make yourself a hot ginger + honey tea for th night; so much nicer drinking something warm and soothing for the throat, verse your ice cold water.

Have a puffer jacket, jandels, and pants nearby for when you need to visit the bathroom. 

Anyway, I woke around 730am, went down to the dining area with Bob and had some breaky. 

Today I shared some food with others and had a hash brown and egg, fried rice, and a chocolate style pancake. Pretty yum.

At this point, I'm being quite careful with my food selections. After having a small dose of the runs earlier on, I am sticking to food that is pretty safe and simple. Either porridge + nuts for breaky with a cup of Earl gray tea, vege+egg fried noodle for lunch, vege+egg fried rice for dinner.  I think I ran with this option for a good five days until I wanted a change.

Breakfast of champions.

Other safe options are pancake, hash brown and egg and if course lots of lemon honey ginger tea.

Some of the pasta dishes can be quite bland and be careful of your cheese/sweets in take. Usually is good fuel, but when you're body is working so hard, you want easy food to process and digest. 

Dahl baht is great, but I just haven't been feeling like the Dahl lately, and I'm trying not to over eat.

Also, potatoes are really good too, I just had a bit of an upset tummy last time I had them. 

Anyways, we left Lobuche around 10.30am, and took our time on the short walk to Gorak Shep.

We took a slight detour path (past the Pyramid), and we were told it would be steep for the first but then basically flat till Gorak Shep. That wasn't the case, we went high, then had to drop back down, and onto an undulating trail. We were all super exhausted and it took us about 3.5hours to walk 4.6km which is crazy.

We arrived in Gorak around 1.45pm, and thankfully our buddy Alex (from London) booked us some rooms, as it can be notoriously difficult to find accommodation in Gorak. Being the highest point with tea houses, and the base point for Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar missions, it is a special place, but it is not inhabited year round - only during the peak trekking season. It's too harsh otherwise.

Our room is on a massive lean which is hilarious, and the walls to the outside world are paper thin. That's all part of it! 

Right on our doorstep now is Kala Patthar - the highest point I'll reach on this trail at 5,611m and also Everest Base Camp at 5,280m

We had lunch next door, played some hearts, and headed back for rest and chill. 

I've updated my journal, baby wipe showered, and might read my book/nap before dinner. 

Currently feeling really content being out in nature, in the elements, living out of my backpack for days on end. Happy with my physical strength and endurance, and so happy with the team we've found to trek together. It would be a fairly lonely trail without them. 

I understand now that there is some rain and possibly snow on the way (in about 5 days time, so really hoping to get through the bulk of the high stuff before that hits! Fingers crossed it changes, but honestly since I've arrived in Kathmandu, it's been nothing but sunshine every day! Clear blue-bird skies non stop!!! So grateful for that. 

Day 13 - Gorak Shep

Side Trip - Kala Patthar for sunset

Elevation Gain - 460m (highest point 5,611)

Total Distance - 3.6km round trip

Sleeping Elevation - 5,180m

Kala Patthar day - which for me was the pinnacle of the entire trip. Highest view point, and we absolutely nailed the sunset!

We planned to have a chill morning, so no alarms and woke up when we wanted. It is high altitude sleeping, so it's pretty unforgiving, and my room mate Bob caught a cold from Maileen, so he was sniffling, and had a tough time sleeping most of the night. It was kind of a sleep where I kept waking, and wishing it was morning again.

We chilled for the morning (while the Americans went off and did basecamp - I was a little antsy and thought about heading off to do bass camp too, but glad I didn't as I needed to rest my legs). 

We played a great game of hearts, had some lunch, had a little nap and left for Kala Patthar at 2pm - meaning we had a good 22 hours ish rest from walking. Still no official 'rest day' yet.

All ready to go for Kala Patthar, I took a selfie with the crew and we set out. I had no intention of walking with the group, as it was essentially a straight up climb for 600m, I had the energy, I didn't want clouds to come over, and it was only going to be 90 ish minutes at most. I knocked it out in 55mins which was quick!

Absolutely clear skies at the top - it was stunning. We were incredibly lucky to score it, and also only 90 minutes away from sunset. We all came prepared with warm layers and eventually the whole crewz plus a big bunch of others were all sitting at the top, patiently awaiting sunset. I luckily nabbed a bit of extra charge from the Americans solar panel which gave me enough to snap away for golden hour. 

It was such a vibe at the top with everyone. The happiest of moments.

We came down as it started getting dark, and eventually it was pitch black, and the headlamp I borrowed barely did a thing - phone torch for the win.

We make it home, and have a quick baby wipe shower (everyday!) and get to the dining area just as food arrives. I went for Korean Raman, which was really great, and had a good kick to it. 

We relaxed, then went out for star gazing which was incredible too. Clear skies, limited light, high altitude, lots of shooting stars, and having fun with long exposures using a tripod. We kept thinking we were stepping in yak shit, but I think we were all fine. Who knows, it was dark.

After 30 minutes, and 10 shooting stars later, we went in and got ready for bed.

Feeling thankful for my gear - super warm in the layers I have with me.

I take a Diamox and paracetamol before bed, balm my lips, vix my nose, have tissues nearby, and pop my filter bottle in my sleeping bag so the life-straw doesn't freeze and crack.

Slow to get to sleep, but did doze off, and woke at 4am needing to rush myself to the bathroom. Perhaps the Ramen was a little too spicy. Balancing over a pitch black squatter at 4am (name of my latest song - different story behind it haha) was an adventure on its own.

Another reminder to keep food intake simple, and not too spicy. God dammit. 

Couldn't really get back to sleep, but did doze off, only to be woken at 6am to try get ourselves fully ready for a 6.30am breaky. Oh, life in the mountains. 

Feelings - that we've been incredibly lucky with two weeks of non stop blue bird days, and nothing overly cold at night - given I was sleeping in a -20 bag, with a silk liner, and merino top and bottoms, with a duvet on top.

Day 14 - Gorak Shep to Dzongla (doing EBC in the morning)

Side Trip - Everest Base Camp

Total Distance - 7km round trip

Elevation Gain - 130m

Elevation Gain to Dzongla - 200m

Total Distance - 11km

Sleeping Elevation - 4,741m

We departed for EBC at 7.15am ish and it was a brisk morning. Sun hadn't hit us just yet, and there was barely anyone on the trail. Which was a nice feeling, knowing it can be a bit of a highway most of the time.

Quite an easy walk from Gorak Shep, and just as we arrived the sun hit us and good vibes were alive!!

Only five other people there with us at Everest Base Camp, we captured some memories on the rock, explored some of the ice fall area and admired the ability to build a base camp on such rocky and uneven terrain.

Boys will be boys; we always love to throw rocks into frozen lakes, but not as bad as the idiot destroying all the stalactites. Sheesh.

We headed back at a decent pace and arrived at our accommodation to have lunch. Starting to get over the fried vege + egg noodles which I've been smashing for a while. ..

Took a nap in a sunny window seat, actually feel asleep as I caught myself drooling on the lodge pillow.  Ewwww

We soon left for our next village, Dzonglha, which was an 11km journey (on top of our 7km roundtrip base camp walk). 

I feel this walk was my favourite of the trip so far:

1. It was so damn amazing to walk mostly downhill for a day.

2. We past Lobuche where we stayed one night after our first pass (so a real sense of moving forward in the journey).

3. The track from Lobuche to Dzonglha followed a fairly narrow path on the side of a decent hill, so basically it was death on my left for a good 30mins as we navigated dirt, rock etc

4. We had clouds for most of the journey past Lobuche, which was nice for a change (although sunshine and views are always great, this was just different; misty and ominous.

So, a long day of walking, but manageable, plus the Americans arrived 3 hours earlier and booked us our rooms. Very small village. 

We all collapsed on our beds in exhaustion, and finally mustered some energy to baby wipe shower, and order dinner; Dahl baht (I had two servings which was nice to have some bigger appetite back).

A few plans were discussed; bit of snow us on the forecast, so just making sure we're prepared for that.

This was Bob's final night with us (as he will head down and rest before summiting Mira Peak). He shouted us a big kettle if lemon ginger honey tea. We played a few cards, and then out of no where, a crowd come storming up to our lodge with torches and shouting, and music playing and dancing. DIWALI!!

We joined the party for a few songs and dances around the candle / offering and everyone has huge smiles on their faces! So cool :)

Anyways, in bed now, 9.30pm - absolutely shattered, and our second pass looming tomorrow. Cho La Pass. Breakfast ordered for 6am

Day 15 - Dzongla to Dragnak

2nd pass - Cho La Pass

Elevation Gain - 560m (4.2km climbing / Cho La High Point - 5,370m)

Total Distance - 8.8km

Sleeping Elevation - 4700m / 15,420ft

Early start this morning; my breakfast was already an hour late when I walk up and ask about my oat porridge! The things you learn along the way (especially with no guide), is that you gotta be clear with the hosts on when you're up, even if you set a time in the morning.

Bit of uncertainty this morning about where we would end up (i.e. walk to Gokyo over the glacier (thank God we didn't so that), or just go to Dragnak). Just as we were about to leave I tried to make a plan and pre-book our next destination but we hadn't done that on the walk at all, so not sure why I semi-freaked at that point. Just go with the flow! It will always work out.

This walk was kinda steep up, but thankfully not super long. It had a really cool glacier we crossed with our spikes, and vibes were pretty good for the group.

We get to the top of Cho La pass, and found a solar charging station at the top which was hilarious to see. I went up further and got some cool photos and we hung out for a bit before heading down the super steep, rocky and unstable decent down the other side.

The elevation profile settled a shortly, and Rox, Mai and I all picked up the pace as we were worried about bookings for Dragnak. Thankfully it was a bit cloudy, so not much to see in the way down, and we hustled it past almost every group on the trail to get into Dragnak and lock in four rooms for the group. 

Heading down to Dragnak.

I was still feeling crook, so I had a Raman, ginger lemon honey tea and went to sleep for almost 3 hours. 

Much needed rest, and I was grateful to have the room to myself for that. 

I came out to the group and was feeling super mellow. Read my book, ordered a super large pot of ginger lemon honey tea, and had momo dinner. The ginger lemon honey tea leftovers was enough to fill a litre nalgene bottle, which was actually really nice in the middle of the night when I wanted to wet my throat from it being so dry. Highly recommend. 

Enjoyed a big sleep (with the room to myself), and in the morning felt fairly back to more normal strength, but a bit sniffly still. 

Day 16 - Dragnak to Gokyo

Over the Ngozumpa Glacier - longest glacier in the Himalayas

Elevation Gain - 120m

Total Distance - 3.6km

Sleeping Elevation - 4750m / 15,584ft

This morning rise was FREEZING - took a while to warm up, and we were all grateful that the walk ahead wasn't super long, but it did cross a massive glacier, which is tricky to navigate. Very up and down, very rocky / loose rocks, and just long. It's deceptive crossing the glaciers it takes way longer than you think!

The glaciers we've seen have been incredible - so massive, and long, and to think of the power needed for it to create what it creates. Incredible.

Ngozumpa Glacier - longest glacier in the Himalayas.

The very end of the glacier crossing was an insanely steep uphill on loose dirt, and coming down were like 5 porters carrying a out 60kg each - just mad.

We arrive at Gokyo lake to an amazing view, and find our accommodation which is actually really great (warm rooms, nice views, great food), until the chimney/stove pipe starts leaking and smokes out the common room. Urgh. 

Arriving at Gokyo Lake.

The three Americans and I decide to book two nights at the bougie Thanka Inn - warm, insulated rooms, but at a higher price - $10usd pp per night. Which, at this point, is well worth the comfort, especially as the next two nights are set to be the coldest we've had all trip.

That first night in Gokyo included apple pie and milk tea at the cafe, some weird docos, chats with Eric (the third American that joined our crew), a tuna pizza (pretty good) and setting plans to maybe hike the Ri in the morning. I played a little guitar in the evening and went to bed.

Day 17 - Gokyo - first actual rest day

Sleeping Elevation - 4750m / 15,584ft

The room was warm, so I had a decent sleep, and woke up feeling more energised and past the cold I had. Up at 5.45am and checked the weather - too cloudy to go up Gokyo Ri, so we cancelled breakfast and went back to bed.

Gokyo Lake - you can see our accommodation on edge of lake.

I had internet still so I sent a few gig emails and shared photos from the trek with others. 

Got up later and enjoyed a pancake + 2 egg breaky with milk tea, and played a little more guitar before checking out.

Saw the two girls as they were venturing up Gokyo Ri, in the clouds - crazy decision in my books. They ended up going half way, chilling for a bit then coming down. 

We checked into Thanka Inn, and enjoyed the day of warmth as the snow came down all afternoon. The rooms are air tight and warm so it's a luxury; well worth the $10usd per nigh, especially at this point of the trip. 

Likely we'll play cards this afternoon and just relax, and very likely tomorrow will be another full rest day as well - perhaps with Gokyo Ri in the mix.

For me right now, I'm looking forward to coming down in altitude, enjoying some more creature comforts of good, fresh fruit and veges, warmer weather, maybe a beer or two, some chicken, hot showers on the daily. But, let's not get too excited - still another 5 days to go! 

There's also a part of me that is super content up in the altitude - the effort that is needed to be here here means I just want to soak it all up for as long as possible.

Day 18 - Gokyo - side trip to Gokyo Ri

Elevation Gain - 590m

Total Distance - 3.4km round trip

Sleeping Elevation - 4750m / 15,584ft

I had my alarm off and was ready to sleep in, Eric had a little check happening at 6.30am, and glad he did as we got up, had a cup of tea and went straight up the Ri.

It was clear skies, not too cold and looked mint conditions for it.

We got up about 80% of the way and clouds started rolling in - oh oooo.

But, being on the top for 30 ish mins was really magical. We had a good view off the backside, and these beautiful glimpses of Everest and Lohtse, plus the lake and mountains opposite Gokyo. 

Also, it was snow covered and all the flags were frozen, so super cool to see!

The top felt dreamy, and hopeful, and I think we made the right call going up, even if it was a little cloudy; it was an epic scene, as the clouds would frequently part, creating space for Everest views!

Came down, via a photo shoot with the yaks, into a big breaky + coffee and then back to sleep for an hour. Bliss.

Headed out to the bakery for a milk tea and organising photos. 

Maileen & Rox came to hang and we played s bunch of Uno. Had some nice chats and sweets, then parted. 

Back at Thanka we put on a Lohtse skiing doco, and then the, 'Into Thin Air' documentary. Wild stuff. 

Had a T Momo dish which kinda stagged me out, then a really yum spring roll dish later, while we bickered over Hearts - I won the final game!!!

It's been a nice treat staying at Thanka. After 15 days, it's been so good having a dry and insulated place to stay, great food, and fun company. Hot shower was great too! 

It does feel like I'm on the final stretch, with one more pass tomorrow, then making my way down to Namchee and eventually out of the park, onto a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu then somewhat into the real world again for a few days, before the India leg of the trip!

It's been pretty challenging in parts, mostly around days 12-15, I had a cold and was just super high up and had some long walking days. 

The trek is tough, and you gotta be on your game out here. The mountains don't wait up for anyone. It's humbling, and inspiring to see the simplicity of what life can be, once again. 

It fills me with confidence and resiliency that I can make it through any challenge that's put in front of me. It reminds me that if I rush and don't allow appropriate time for situations, that's when things can go wrong - I need to trust intuition and make moves when the timing is right, and know it's ok to wait at certain points if it feels good or if rest is needed, and to know when I can strike when opportunities present themselves - all the life lessons.

Day 19 - Gokyo to Lungdhen

3rd Pass - Rengola Pass

Elevation Gain - 630m

Total Distance - 11km

Rengola Pass High Point - 5,375m (4.3km climbing to top)

Sleeping Elevation - 4350m / 14,271ft

We're up and ready for our third and final pass - this one I'll be doing with Jamie and Sarah. 

The two girls went up for Gokyo Ri at first light (well, 4am departure and seeing sunrise, which they said was the coldest thing ever). 

We started our day more relaxed and was on the trail by 7.30am

We followed the base of the Ri, beside the 3rd lake, then made our way up to the pass.

It was a beautiful change having snow on the trail; very much a welcomed event. 

I mostly walked solo as the Americans can take their time. I get to the top, take some snaps and enjoy some snacks. I see a stunning pink bird which I happily capture a close up of.

I see familiar faces from the trail, and also the usual groups of Chinese or otherwise. I would say walking solo without a guide or porter is not the norm here. 

The views at the top were stunning, although whisps of clouds lingered on Everest, Lohtse and  Makalu. Still stunning.

I'm grateful of my physicality throughout the trail - I've felt super strong the whole time, with the only setbacks being food or cold related, which is somewhat self inflicted. I could be more strict on who I spend nights with, and what I put into my body for fuel. For the most part of been really solid. 

Top of Rengola Pass - third and final pass.

We clip on our spikes for the decent, which was a long, well built staircase down, until the snow faded and we began our decent all the way down to Lungden. We were very excited to drop down in elevation; better sleeps, slightly warmer, slightly cheaper, better facilities, and easier breathing. Just overall more natural for my body at least. 

On the way down.

It was a fairly long walk down, but honestly after climbing so much, the downhills are so easy, and I can just meander through it without a problem. 

We stopped at a nice place in Lungden, and they were super fast with food which was a bonus.

I dropped some business cards to a lodge down the road, and had chats with Isabelle - 21 Austrian who owns a restaurant in the Alps. She invited me to play music there during summer months :)

I also caught another stunning sunset. Lucky me!

I tried out pschampa porridge the next morning, which was thick and kinda nutty. And enjoyed a pretty decent sleep. Feeling well accomplished, and now on the way out. 

Day 20 - Lungdhen to Namche Bazaar

Elevation Drop - 900m

Total Distance - 18km

Sleeping Elevation - 3,400m

The girls found us in Lungden, and we ventured out from there in the morning towards Namche. Was really great hiking with them again, and I think at this stage they're my favourite trekking buddies (mostly we're on a similar pace). Once again surrounded by the female energy that I enjoy so much =)

It was nice to see trees, and green again, and we actually saw the super colourful bird (the Himalayan Monal) which I think is pretty rare to see, at least by our standards. We caught a glimpse and that was it!

Destruction from a landslide only a month or two before.

Happy to have arrived in Namche - we enquired at Hotel Nirvana and stayed there a night. Amazing views in the morning! So worth it.

In Namche we went to a local momo/samosa eatery which was epic, but I also think Roxanne and I got a little sick from the buffalo momos. Each time I've eaten buffalo I've been a bit crook. 

But it tasted great at the time.

After our second dinner, we headed out to the Irish pub for a few drinks - couple of beers and a strong gin and tonic. Played some pool and I showed everyone my latest Spotify creation, Stu J - 4AM - on the big speakers. Smoked a bit of mango hash and we were all having a fun time!

I had a killer headache the next day, and Roxanne I think was sick all night. Altitude drinking is tough going - not sure how Maileen managed to pull through unscathed. 

I woke at 8am ish, had breaky and tea/coffees on the balcony. Was an epic way to start the day, and the headache soon eased.

How to record the bill at teahouses.

By the time the girls woke and we were ready to leave it was about 10am

Overall, we were all so happy to have finished the walk and the celebrations were well worth it.

Day 21 - Namche to Lukla

Elevation Drop - 900m (also with a 300m climb)

Total Distance - 18km

Sleeping Elevation - 3,860m

It was a very slow start to the day, but we headed on our way. A short stop for samosa, an quick encounter with Sarah and Jamie, and we also stopped a cute place for lunch. I over ate, which seemed fine at the time but I think it built up and hence why I'm in Kathmandu not feeling great.

I led the way for the last 5km and for the last 30mins we were walking in the dark.

Lukla was a cool sight to see as we get to the top of the climb, and it's a flat, main street with lights; we made it!

Greeted by this dog at Lukla.

We went straight to alpine lodge (recommended from owner of Thanka Inn at Gokyo), ordered food and spoke to Kaji about flights. 

He helped to book us in, and when we arrived at the airport, we see that he's the main bro running Summit Airlines - great contact to have :)

In the morning we were told flights were delayed for a few hours, so we went to a cool cafe and had coffee on the balcony. We strolled the streets and eventually saw a plane taking off.

Back at Alpine Lodge, Kaji's wife escorted us over to the airport and we literally just followed her instructions until we were boarded and up in the air! So handy.

The flight was cool, but I felt very queezy - perhaps the low pressure in the cabin, or maybe I wasn't feeling great to begin with. 

We waited for a bit at the airport for Maileen, then taxied back to KTM to my accommodation. 

I slept for 4 hours, had pizza, then back to bed! I am super tired, but super content with life.

I've just completed a trip of a lifetime!

Totals for Three Passes Trek

Toal Elevation Gain - 9,600m (approx)

(Height of Mt. Everest - 8,849m)

Total Distance Trekking - 184km

Includes the side trips, base camp missions and ridge climbs.

My Packlist for Three Passes, Nepal

As with all hiking, you want to pack light and be smart with non-essentials, as you'll be carrying it the whole way!

Most important things to bring from home are your best, ideally merino base layers - lightweight, durable, breathable, non-stink, quick drying layers. You want your preferred hiking boots, and your preferred super warm puffer layer.

Everything else you can get over there - i.e. poles, spikes, bottles, meds, snacks, mid-layers, sunnies, buffs, - it's a huge economy up there, and you'll have shops for days, even super high up in a place like Namche Bazar at 3,400m altitude.

If you're a visual person, check out this Three Passes Packlist Video on YouTube I found online - was really helpful. Unguided trips.

Anyway, here is my packing list:

• Your trekking bag - I had 80L, but most people had smaller bags somehow

• Warm sleeping bag - hired in Thamel

• Silk liner for sleeping bag - bought in NZ

• Puffer jacket - MacPac

• Buff - I bought a second and third one on the walk

• Sunnies and sunblock

• Beanie and hat

• Gloves

• Micro towel

• Rain jacket

• Rain cover for bag

• Dry bag (which I used as my day pack)

• Two merino top base layers (one for sleeping, one for walking)

• Compression shorts and longs (mostly used the shorts as days were hot)

• Merino long johns - mostly for sleeping / night time

• One shorts and one hiking pants (bought in Thamel) - the zips on pockets were the best!

• Merino t-shirt

• Long sleeve, light-weight shirt - mostly for sun protection - wore this everyday!

• Poles - bought in Thamel - only used one - cheap as

• Spikes - bought in Thamel - only used handful of times, but essential

• Packing cell of meds - I highly recommend diamox - altitude sickness pills

• Toilet paper

• Baby wipes (3x per day)

• Snacks - snickers, almonds, cashews, dried dates, protein bars

• I recommend brining a bunch of tea bags too - especially lemon, honey and giner tea - really nice to have this at night

• Plastic bags for rubbish - leave no trace!

• Camelbak Life Straw - filter water bottle - I have since bought a Sawyer Filtration system

• Hiking boots (plasters in your med bag)

• Night sandles / jandles

• I actually took some light, trail shoes for the side walks and cold evenings - I found these quite nice to have

• Merino socks - so handy - you can wash, dry these on the trail

• Phone, charger and kindle

• Lots of cash!

That's all I can think of right now.

Get in touch if you're doing the trip. Always happy to chat!

Stu